What is the Purpose of HydroStream History & Performance?
This website strives to present historically accurate information to help educate enthusiasts and preserve a legacy that could diminish and perish over time. It also serves as a knowledge base for owners and enthusiasts on the different models, setups, and care for these boats.

What Happened to the HydroStream Registry?
The International HydroStream Registry was a database of hull, motor, and setup information from owners around the U.S. and Canada.  It was intended to provide owners with information regarding other boats similar to their own that would assist them in setting up a properly running and safe boat, and it also tried to help the prospective buyer of a HydroStream in determining what is necessary and desirable in the rig they wish to pursue purchasing. Unfortunately, owners of these types of boats change hands regularly making it extremely difficult and time consuming to keep up with an ever-changing listing. Because of that, the Registry stopped taking new members and in 2010, the name changed to HydroStream History & Performance which better reflects the goals of this website: to be the number one source of information on the history and ownership of HydroStream boats.

What can I do to help support this website?
Contributions in the way of articles, pictures, new information, guest boats, etc. are extremely helpful.

Can you help me sell my boat?
No, so please don't ask me unless you are a recently widowed owner of a boat you know nothing about!  Use the resources available to you online.  Trader Online and Scream & Fly are good places to try.

I broke my boat's concave windshield. What can I do?
That and the next question below are easily the two most asked questions.  Basically, you have three options:
1) Buy a new one from the factory.  You will take a big hit for shipping with this option.
2) Buy a used one.  Good and bad news about these windshields: the good is that they made an awful lot of these and the concave windshield is the same one used on all the models that had this type of windshield (Viper, Vector, Viking, Vulture).  The bad news is that an awful lot of them have broken by now and they can be hard to find.  Watching the classifieds is your best bet as every once in awhile one will show up.
3) Make your own.  It's been done numerous times.  If you still have your original frame, and the old windshield as a pattern, a new one can be bent to shape by carefully using heat.  Or, you can go for a completely new look and duplicate the old Sterling Dominator's (a Vector splash) windshield.  Many people find this an especially good looking windshield (though not original if that is important to you) and you shouldn't need to heat it to make the bends, though you do need to be a little innovative as far as making the attachments.

Should I remove the hook in my hull?
Sigh...such a controversial question and one that will probably never be resolved to everyone's satisfaction.  For some background, that hook actually started out as a wedge, and you should read my comments on it on the Vector model page.  If someone asks me if they should remove it, I have to ride the fence because of the varied results people have had.  Some people have done it and say the boat will handle better and be more stable. Others say they did it and lost speed and the boat handled worse.  You need to talk to others who have done the work successfully and have the experience, weigh the possible benefits and consequences, and make the decision yourself.  Better yet, go for a ride in one that has been worked on and one that hasn't.

My aluminum rubrail is damaged.  Can I replace it?
In a word, no.  When these hulls were made, the aluminum rubrail was riveted to the hull before the deck was put on.  At first, the transom area was left open while the rubrail was attached forward of it.  The deck was slid into place, and then the rubrail was curled over the deck acting as a sort of clamp while the whole hull was then turned over and the deck fiberglassed into place.  You get the picture in that to replace it with the original rubrail, the deck needs to come off.  Regarding a damaged rubrail, sometimes it can be reshaped and sanded to bring it back to life.  If it's too far gone, another alternative is a black vinyl rubrail that fits over the original.  Check out HydroStream enthusiast and frequent I.H.R. contributor Ron Pratt's article regarding this option.

I've decided to look for a used HydroStream to buy. What guidance can you give?
First thing is to read my article "Guideline to Buying a Used HydroStream" in the Feature Article Archives.  Ask questions of other owners that have the model you are interested in.  Try to take test rides in the different models.  Each model has it's own pluses and minuses, so you want to get one that fits your particular needs and desires.  Then keep a watch on the different classifieds resources mentioned above.  Above all else, remember this:  I would say the majority of HydroStreams - now mostly old in age - have rotted cores and/or transoms.  Be very careful and check them out completely.  Keep in mind that they were once a high production boat and a lot of the workmanship was inconsistent and shoddy.

I just bought a HydroStream and at around 65 MPH it starts to rock from side to side.  It's hard to control and is quite scary.  Why is it doing that and what can I do to keep from having to back off the throttle?
Welcome to the world of high performance boating in a V-bottom boat!  What you are experiencing is called chinewalking and it is a normal occurrence when reaching those speeds and higher.  Basically, the boat will raise up and ride on its pad, and then it becomes a balancing act with your input as a driver and a properly setup boat the key to taming it.  Click here to access an excellent page that discusses chinewalking in detail and has some good tips on dealing with it on the BassBoat Central website.